Sunday, August 17, 2003

2003 Discovering Britain & Ireland – Day 22

CHEESES AND LEEKS - Chester to Cardiff

Today we head toward Ludlow in Shropshire. Lovely little town with a very ancient castle which now lies in ruins.  I make the most of my time and make a dash for Ludlow Castle – entry fee ₤3.50. Ludlow Castle Ludlow Castle

Construction of the castle began in the late 11th Century. Climbing to the top of the tower - negotiate the really narrow staircase and you get a great view. The countryside is so green and it is not hard to imagine what things would have been like all those years ago when this castle was fully operational.

 

View from Ludlow Castle

Today there is a market in the town square. Lots of bric-a-brac and interesting items. I really do have to be strong and not buy anything as my bags are getting heavier by the day. Can you see the market? The skies are sort of clear - - so I make the most of them and walk around the top of the castle taking a view from just about everywhere I stop.

I manage to get back down the staircase without doing myself a mischief and then it’s off to discover the town. The buildings are a little bit like Chester with the split timbers.  The Feathers - Ludlow This is a very old hotel called The Feathers.

HISTORY LESSON: The oldest part of The Feathers, including the world famous timber façade, was built in 1619 (during the reign of King James I). The name of the hotel springs from the motifs of ostrich feathers forming part of the timber framed façade constructed in 1616 for the investiture of Charles as Prince of Wales. (Later King Charles I). Ludlow was a town with Royalist sympathies and remained loyal throughout the English Civil War, during which it is thought that Royalist soldiers were billeted at the Feathers until it was converted into an inn around 1670. As well as providing food, beer and accommodation, the inn was occasionally used as a venue for cock-fighting and prize-fighting.

We cross back into Wales at Monmouth and go through the Wye Valley where we stop at Tintern Abbey which is about 4km north of Chepstow.  Founded in 1131 by the Cistercian monks who cultivated the surrounding lands it is now one of the greatest monastic ruins in Wales.Tintern Abbey

By the 14th century this was the richest abbey in Wales with buildings being added until it, along with other monasteries, were dissolved by Henry VIII in 1536. We don’t go in but I can still take lots of photos from the streets. Very eerie feeling about this place. It’s strange that when you are near these ruined abbeys – everyone talks in hushed tones. Ever since the 18th century, travellers have been enchanted by Tintern’s setting in the steep and wooded Wye Valley.

 

After a stretch of the legs (read more photos) and a bit of shopping at the little tourist place we get back on the coach and head off for Cardiff. The country side is fabulous – it is still very green even though we have not had any rain.

Our hotel for the night in Cardiff is the Hanover International. Very nice and clean, big comfy bed and the bathroom has a huge big bath. WOW!!  Am just relaxing on the bed in my undies (because it is Summer and hot remember) when I hear a noise and some family comes trekking through the door. Hello says they – hello says I, what are you doing here? This is our room – says they; no it is mine – says I – and a quick grab for anything to cover up. The family is very apologetic and embarrassed (aren’t we all) and I am not too happy with what has occurred let me tell you – so after I recover from the shock, I throw some clothes on and head down to reception to give them a mouthful. Apparently the hotel computers went down and when this family checked in they gave them my room number. Apologies, apologies. I think the family got a bigger shock than me. Anyway all is settled so back upstairs to relax some more and then it’s time for –

#13 OPTIONAL: Welsh Musical Evening and Dinner - Cost ₤32.50

Hidden away down some very interesting narrow laneways and roads that are just wide enough for the coach is the oldest house in Wales – Kemeys Manor.  Kemeys Manor

A lovely old house built in 1091. It is privately owned and the owner gives us a little guided tour around the grounds before going in.  The chimneys on the house are really special and are called barley sugar.

The staff – 3 ladies - who are serving us are all singers and they have fabulous voices. There is a man playing the harp and he is great – photo time!  We have a really nice traditional Welsh meal with fine wine, enjoy some wonderful stirring Welsh singing and have a wander around the inside of the house. What a great night. Even though I think it is a bit overpriced (I can’t help converting back to Aussie Dollars) – if the money goes toward keeping the house in this condition I am happy to pay it. I also buy the CD of them singing – just can’t help being a tourist of the First Degree. Kemeys Manor A wonderful evening. 

Three likely lads. Left to right - - Paul – our Tour Director; Kenny – our Coach Driver; and the owner of Kemey’s Manor whose name I do not remember.

We leave the house and head back down the narrow lanes which seem a bit narrower at this stage. The night is pitch black and Kenny does a fabulous job of driving – he is a real hoot.

Highlight of the day: The singing at Kemeys Manor.

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