Sunday – Karnak - magnificence by day
▲ ▲ ▲ Up early for another exciting day – this time we are off to spend the morning at the Temple of Karnak. It was a real advantage going to the Sound and Light beforehand as we knew what we are going to see by daylight but it never really prepared us for this. What an amazing place.
After the past days of the three ‘T’s – Torrid Touring of Temples - we tell Mohamed that we are not going to be hurried around anymore – we are going to take our time and have a look at everything. He sees the look in the eyes of Sekhmet and Thoth and thinks ‘better not argue with those two.’ A very wise decision.
HISTORY LESSON : The Temple of Karnak is the largest and the most complicated architecture in Egypt. Since the Middle Kingdom, Thebes was a centre of the cult of Amon-Ra and this temple dedicated to him had become the most important sanctuary in Thebes. The Temple has two axis which define the composition of the world of Karnak. The axis of east to west corresponds with the orbit of the sun and means the sun in the heaven. The axis south to north corresponds with the Nile and means absolute power of the Gods and Pharaoh. The area covered by the monuments is divided into three sections with rough brick walls separating them. The largest, which covers about thirty hectares is the central area and also the best preserved. The most truly amazing feature is the hypostyle hall which is 120 metres long by 53 metres wide and has 134 columns each 23 metres high. Over the years, the Temple was added to by many Pharaohs.
We will start with the majestic Avenue of ram-headed Sphinxes which lead to the first pylon. These are part of the 3 km avenue that connected Luxor Temple to Karnak. Remember the earlier picture at the Temple of Luxor? Below right is the Avenue of Sphinxes with me! 
HISTORY LESSON : At the beginning of the 21st dynasty, there were two individuals rising to power about 1070BC. Smendes in the north at Tanis and Pinedjem in the south at Thebes. Pinedjem apparently married Henuttaway, a daughter of Ramses XI. Pinedjem was the Pharaoh’s birth name and together with his ephithet, Mery-amun his name may be translated as ‘He who belongs to the Pleasant One (Horus or Ptah) Beloved of Amun’. He usurped this statue of Ramses II and had his own name inscribed on it. Many Pharaoh’s cut away their predecessors name and put their own on statues etc. He held office over Southern Egypt until his death in about 1032BC.
Last night we were told of a giant scarab that would bring good luck. 
It was great to see all the places highlighted in the night time show, but it is not until you see things in the daylight that you realise just how huge this place is. It must have been absolutely stunning when the buildings and statues were all painted and intact.
After we walked as far as we could – and saw all that we could in our limited time (realistically – you would need a whole 12 months or more here and maybe that is not enough) we walked back to the entrance and discovered we still had a bit of extra time so I wandered back to the Hypostyle Hall. As I was wandering around and being absolutely stunned by the sheer massiveness of the place, and in my own little world - out from behind one of these columns pops this Egyptian Mr Kodak wearing a galabea who told me where to stand to get a good photo. Well, who am I to argue? He walked me around the columns and I finally ended up here – so this is the result. 
We certainly did spend a lot of time here – and when we all finally met up at the front of the Temple, Mohamed took a deep breath, plucked up the courage and said it is time to leave and for once we did not argue – well, to a certain extent anyway. We did spend about 4 hours there. It was the most amazing time. Anything you see in books does not do this place justice.
Going back to the boat we stop at the Soliman Perfume Palace – where I buy some perfume oil base that you mix with water. They have all the leading designer brands of perfume oil and I got one the same as ‘Femme’ by Rochas; except theirs is called Shaharazad. It is just like the real thing. You put about 5 drops into a small atomiser and fill with water, give it a shake – and the perfume lasts all day. Incredible. I also bought some delicate glass perfume bottles – just for show. Now I have to nurse them all the way home and make sure they don’t break – along with the olive oil!. Back to the boat for lunch, an afternoon swim and a total relax and then we get a cab into Luxor. The boat is moored too far from the city out to walk. That is a real bummer. Maybe Insight should look at improving that situation. Anyway, we walked around Luxor and spotted – you guessed it – the good old Golden Arches. We all decide that we want some ice cream cones. No matter where you go – there is always a McDonald’s not far away. I bet you could McDonald your way round this world if you were so inclined.
We walk past the Winter Palace Hotel where Lord Carnarvon stayed when Carter discovered the tomb of Tutankamen but it was too dark to take a photo – bummer. Mental note made to get a better camera! After more wandering the streets of Luxor - we head back to the boat because we have to pack and get up early in the morning; we are flying back to Cairo.
Highlight of the day : the Hypostyle columns at Karnak
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