1998 Mystery of History – Day 12

Wednesday – Philae to Aswan – Isis, islands & feluccas

▲ ▲ ▲ Another early start, another wonderful breakfast. Blue skies await and today we tour the Temple of Isis on the island of Philae. Kylie is a bit better but still a bit sore so she has commandeered my big white cotton shirt that I bought in Athens. I think she has her eye on it so I will have to keep my eye on her! We get a small bus from our boat to another wharf where we get on board a small motor launch which takes us across Lake Nasser to the Temple which is on an island in the Nile. It is wonderful to be near the water all the time. The Nile is so blue and the breeze is refreshing. After a short cruise we arrive at the island. It looks fabulous.

HISTORY LESSON : This temple is one of the three best preserved Ptolemaic temples. (Edfu and Dendera being the other two). It is dedicated to the goddess Isis. During the construction of the old dam in 1904 the temple found itself under water for most of the time. After the big dam at Aswan was built, it became necessary, in order to save the temple, to dismantle it and rebuild it on the island of Egilika 150 metres to the north.

Mohamed does his usual very informative talk – and then we can enjoy a nice leisurely stroll around the temple and surprise – take lots of photos – now up to roll number 15. The carvings on the pylons are fabulous. It is incredible to think that all of this was on another island and then moved to this one. I am glad that it was not left to be covered by the waters of the dam. It would have been such a great loss.

We see the Pavillion of Nectanebo I (380-362 BC). This is the oldest structure on the island. Note the bell shaped Hathor columns.

Another photo of Pavillion (or Kiosk) of Trajan. As its name implies it dates from the Roman Imperial period but was left unfinished. It is also called ‘the Pharoah’s bed” 

After Philae we visit the mighty Aswan Dam with views over Lake Nasser. It is huge.

There is a gate type object that looks like it is right out of Stargate.

On the way back to the boat we visit Ani papyrus and I am caught again. I buy a small papyrus for LE 35.00.

  Back to the boat for lunch and a bit of a relax before setting off again – this time for an afternoon sail in a felucca around Elephantine and Kitchener Islands. See below left.

   

On the right here’s Kylie (in my shirt again!) and me – this photo was taken by the dreaded Britannica – so she came in useful sometimes. 

It is wonderful to look around and see all the feluccas – just like in the books.

  On the left if is Kitchener Island.  It was given to Lord Kitchener for his services in the Sudan campaign.  He transformed the island into a paradise of exotic trees and plants and carefully planned walkways. The entire island now constitutes a botanical garden and can only be reached by boat. It is very hot and still - no breeze at all – so the guy has to row for a while – what an effort that is. Sailing on the Nile in our felucca is lovely nevertheless.

We get lots of Nubian kids coming along side and they are singing ‘Frere Jacque’. The little boats they are in do not look safe to me as they bob around all over the place but – they sail in them all the time.  Mohamed says that they do not go to school in the afternoon because it is so hot!

We head back to our boat and I am lucky enough to be able to get some good photos of our ‘Giselle’.

Usually there have been other boats in the way – but today she sits on the Nile all by herself so I start snapping away. After our felucca cruise we explore the market in Aswan and I buy some statues of Horus, Sekhmet, and Anubis. I also get some musk and sandalwood incense. Back on board our boat – time to relax and after dinner there is to be on board entertainment. There is going to be a belly dancer, and no, it is not me!  I have ordered a gold cartouche with my name on it from the jewellery store on the boat and it is ready. I shall be able to wear it tonight.  We have our usual sumptuous dinner and get ready to watch the show. The belly dancer looks all of 16. She was OK I suppose but not really graceful.

There were also two guys dressed up as a camel – now that was funny. They kept going up to all the ladies and kissing them. They never came near us – which was a good thing let me tell you. And I could tell Kylie was pleased with that as well.

There was also a male dancer called a whirling dervish. He had lots of big flowing skirts who did nothing but spin and spin and spin. Makes me dizzy just to think about it. Apparently there are not many dervishes left. He was fabulous.

Highlight of the day : Sailing on the Nile in a felucca.