1998 Mystery of History – Day 12

Wednesday – Philae to Aswan – Isis, islands & feluccas

▲ ▲ ▲ Another early start, another wonderful breakfast. Blue skies await and today we tour the Temple of Isis on the island of Philae. Kylie is a bit better but still a bit sore so she has commandeered my big white cotton shirt that I bought in Athens. I think she has her eye on it so I will have to keep my eye on her! We get a small bus from our boat to another wharf where we get on board a small motor launch which takes us across Lake Nasser to the Temple which is on an island in the Nile. It is wonderful to be near the water all the time. The Nile is so blue and the breeze is refreshing. After a short cruise we arrive at the island. It looks fabulous.

HISTORY LESSON : This temple is one of the three best preserved Ptolemaic temples. (Edfu and Dendera being the other two). It is dedicated to the goddess Isis. During the construction of the old dam in 1904 the temple found itself under water for most of the time. After the big dam at Aswan was built, it became necessary, in order to save the temple, to dismantle it and rebuild it on the island of Egilika 150 metres to the north.

Mohamed does his usual very informative talk – and then we can enjoy a nice leisurely stroll around the temple and surprise – take lots of photos – now up to roll number 15. The carvings on the pylons are fabulous. It is incredible to think that all of this was on another island and then moved to this one. I am glad that it was not left to be covered by the waters of the dam. It would have been such a great loss.

We see the Pavillion of Nectanebo I (380-362 BC). This is the oldest structure on the island. Note the bell shaped Hathor columns.

Another photo of Pavillion (or Kiosk) of Trajan. As its name implies it dates from the Roman Imperial period but was left unfinished. It is also called ‘the Pharoah’s bed” 

After Philae we visit the mighty Aswan Dam with views over Lake Nasser. It is huge.

There is a gate type object that looks like it is right out of Stargate.

On the way back to the boat we visit Ani papyrus and I am caught again. I buy a small papyrus for LE 35.00.

  Back to the boat for lunch and a bit of a relax before setting off again – this time for an afternoon sail in a felucca around Elephantine and Kitchener Islands. See below left.

   

On the right here’s Kylie (in my shirt again!) and me – this photo was taken by the dreaded Britannica – so she came in useful sometimes. 

It is wonderful to look around and see all the feluccas – just like in the books.

  On the left if is Kitchener Island.  It was given to Lord Kitchener for his services in the Sudan campaign.  He transformed the island into a paradise of exotic trees and plants and carefully planned walkways. The entire island now constitutes a botanical garden and can only be reached by boat. It is very hot and still - no breeze at all – so the guy has to row for a while – what an effort that is. Sailing on the Nile in our felucca is lovely nevertheless.

We get lots of Nubian kids coming along side and they are singing ‘Frere Jacque’. The little boats they are in do not look safe to me as they bob around all over the place but – they sail in them all the time.  Mohamed says that they do not go to school in the afternoon because it is so hot!

We head back to our boat and I am lucky enough to be able to get some good photos of our ‘Giselle’.

Usually there have been other boats in the way – but today she sits on the Nile all by herself so I start snapping away. After our felucca cruise we explore the market in Aswan and I buy some statues of Horus, Sekhmet, and Anubis. I also get some musk and sandalwood incense. Back on board our boat – time to relax and after dinner there is to be on board entertainment. There is going to be a belly dancer, and no, it is not me!  I have ordered a gold cartouche with my name on it from the jewellery store on the boat and it is ready. I shall be able to wear it tonight.  We have our usual sumptuous dinner and get ready to watch the show. The belly dancer looks all of 16. She was OK I suppose but not really graceful.

There were also two guys dressed up as a camel – now that was funny. They kept going up to all the ladies and kissing them. They never came near us – which was a good thing let me tell you. And I could tell Kylie was pleased with that as well.

There was also a male dancer called a whirling dervish. He had lots of big flowing skirts who did nothing but spin and spin and spin. Makes me dizzy just to think about it. Apparently there are not many dervishes left. He was fabulous.

Highlight of the day : Sailing on the Nile in a felucca.

1998 Mystery of History- Day 11

Tuesday – Edfu to Kom Ombo – Horus soars above lazy Sobek

▲ ▲ ▲ After a wonderful night’s sleep – so relaxing – we head off for a great breakfast. I just love these breakfasts of fresh fruit etc and am eating everything. Am taking my malaria tablets and still have no sign of ‘mummies tummy’ at this stage.  Today we are to visit the Temple at Edfu – dedicated to the god Horus.  Grabbing cameras and loads of film, we go up on deck to have a look around and we are greeted by a very strong smell of urine.  Boy, does it stink. We discover it is from all the horses that are connected to our carriages that are at the dock waiting to take us to the temple.  The carriages are very ‘Howard Carter-ish’ and Kylie and I get into one.  The driver takes off and we have a lovely ride.

We arrive at the temple in one piece and the Nefer group gets ready to explore. Mohamed says this temple is the best preserved temple in Egypt – and he is not wrong.  What an experience.

HISTORY LESSON: This temple – dedicated to the god Horus - was built during the Ptolemaic period on top of an older temple dating from the time of Thutmose III. It was buried under sand and silt for nearly 5000 years.  At the entrance to the temple are two beautiful black granite statues depicting Horus in the form of a falcon. Inside the entrance pylon, stands large statues of Horus and Hathor.  It was built over a 180 year period from from 237 BC to  57 BC.

Every tourist wants to have their photo taken with the large grey granite statue of Horus – and I am no exception.  Look left.

The hieroglyphs and carvings on the walls are practically intact.  We see the Courtyard of Libations - - - the main building which includes a great hypostyle hall. There are lots of beautiful reliefs concerning the annual meeting of Horus and his wife Hathor - - - and the place where the sacred barque was kept.  There is an early 20^th century replica of the barque of Horus that would have sat in within the sanctuary.

HISTORY LESSON : During the third month of Summer, the priests at the Dendera complex would place the statue of Hathor on her barque (ceremonial barge) and would bring the statue to Edfu Temple where it was believed that Horus and Hathor would share a conjugal visit.

After spending about 2 hours here we enjoy a return carriage ride with our Egyptian friend.  I get to sit up front and help drive – not to worry – the horse has done this before and knows exactly where to go - - there is a convoy of about 30 carriages all going to the same place so I can’t get lost.  We arrive back at the boat and I ask Kylie to take my photo with the carriage driver.  He is very obliging and I give him a tip of LE1.00.  He does not look too pleased because apparently that was not enough. He chases us down to the dock wanting more. Kylie and I hotfoot it down the gang-plank and back to safety. Hot towels and hibiscus tea await.  Up to our room to recover and have a good laugh and - - - we discover that the staff have made little Horus’s for us out of our towels and placed them on the bed. How cute!

We have lunch at 1pm and continue sailing south to Kom Ombo.  Back up to the pool and the sun deck for some more relaxation and Kylie gets herself an extreme case of sunburn and possible sun stroke.  She goes down to the room where it is cool – she is not too well.  I make sure she has lots of cool water to drink.

We arrive at Kom Ombo late in the afternoon and unfortunately Kylie is no better so she won’t be coming on the tour. We head off and arrive at the Twin Temples of Sobek and Horus just on dusk - it is awesome.

HISTORY LESSON : Situated between Edfu and Aswan, Kom Ombo is the ancient city of Pa-Sebek – the home of Sebek (Sobek) the crocodile god .  At this site are the impressive remains of a double temple – joining two temples along one side. The right hand temple is that of Sobek, the god of fertility while the left hand temple is that of Horus. The temples were built during the time of Tuthmose III – 1479-1425 BC (18th Dynasty) - and later rebuilt by the Ptolemies.

The temples are lovely. Sobek is associated with the wicked god Seth, the enemy of Horus.  In the Horus myth the allies of Seth made their escape by changing themselves into crocodiles. The locals believed that as a totem animal and object of worship, the crocodile would not attack them.  Captive crocodiles were kept within the temple and many mummified crocodiles have been found in cemeteries. We see some mummified crocodiles in a special room at the Temple.

As the dusk turns to night the temples are lit with a wonderful natural glow plus the ‘man-made’ lights - -

After touring the temples we go to the local street stalls so that we can buy some galabeas for the on-board party tonight. Galabeas are the long dress type things that Egyptians wear. They are really comfortable.  I buy myself a blue and gold set and get Kylie a light white cotton galabea with a rich burgundy and gold coat.

When we get back to the boat, the crew has made a model of a crewman being eaten by a crocodile.  This crew do lots of strange things but they are loads of fun.  This is a part of the food on the boat.   At this section are just the ‘starters’.  You enter the dining room at the door near the plates and the main meals are further round to the right .

Kylie surfaces for the party – looking really red and sore.  After our dinner we go to the show area for a drink.  After the disappointment and the expense of the wine we decide to have lemonade and coke.  There are quite a few people here and they all are having a good time.   

Below left is our Nefer group all dressed up for the Galabea Party. 

 

Mohamed – our guide sits on the floor beside the dreaded Britannica.  Left to right - Joe, Judy, Kylie, Jean and me.  It is a good night and we have fun making idiots of ourselves – along the principal of ‘these people are not going to see me again after this trip’. Judy has to dress up Joe as a mummy. Rolls and rolls of paper – he looks as if he just got out of the home for the bewildered!!! They are a fun couple.  She is a photographer who loves to take photos of cemeteries and monuments.  Sounds macabre but it is really fascinating to hear her talk about it.  Anyway, a good time is had by all and we adjourn to our rooms for the night where we discover the crew has been at it again. Now they have used Kylie’s jeans, my T-shirt and some towels to make a model of a guy sitting in a chair as soon as we walk in the door. 

I can’t tell you what Kylie said when she first opened the door and saw it in the dark – but feel free to use your imagination!!

We crawl into bed and listen to the sound of the water gently lapping the boat as we drift off to visit with the ancients.

Highlight of the day : being chased by the carriage driver.

1998 Mystery of History – Day 10

Monday – Cairo to Luxor to Edfu – cruising down the river

▲ ▲ ▲ Up early, making sure we don’t leave anything behind, we go down to the lobby to meet up with Walid.  We are introduced to our Tour Guide and the rest of the group.  Anyway, our Tour Guide’s name is – wait for it – Mohamed. (Every one we meet is named Mohamed except for Walid).  He is a qualified Egyptologist and has a wicked sense of humour. There are only six in our group. WOW !!!!!!!!! This is just like a personalised tour.  I can’t believe how lucky we are. The group consists of another 2 Aussie ladies – Jean and her daughter Carolyn (who we shall call Britannica); 2 Americans – Joe and Judy and Kylie and me.

We leave Cairo on flight MS115 departing 6.45am. Egyptian Air – nice airline and nice staff.  Was glad in a way to get out of Cairo - but sad also. The mornings were great but as the day went on the pollution and the mists and haze off the desert took over the city. Still it was exciting and I would do it again. And saying that – our tour will bring us back in about 8 days.  Waiting, waiting on the tarmac, our flight is delayed for about an hour and a half so they can change a tyre. They really should have checked the tyres when they did a service.  Another photo opportunity but the windows are greasy and grubby from the sand and junk. However we do see some Egyptian Air Force fighters that have their little homes in bunkers under the sand.  Anyway the tyre is now OK and we taxi to finally take off – faster, faster down the tarmac – up in the air and we strain our necks to get a glimpse of the pyramids and sphinx in the early morning light.  No photo opportunity – we are going the other way – bummer.

We land in Luxor about 10.00am.  Our little bus from Spring Tours is waiting for us and we head off to the boat. We arrive at the dock and there are loads of boats. We wonder which one is ours.  Unfortunately we cannot see it because to get to our boat we have to walk through two other boats that are connected by gangplanks.  This is going to be fun.  When we get to our boat - ‘The Giselle’ – she looks like sheer luxury afloat. Huge chandeliers – carpets, wooden handrails on the sweeping staircases and then we are shown to our cabins.  Very Agatha Christie I must say!

In our cabin there are two large comfy single beds, a lovely bathroom and a huge panoramic window the length of the room.  WOW.  After unpacking and relaxing a bit we are to meet and get to know one another.  We go downstairs to the lounge area and we are served hibiscus tea – very refreshing and then Mohamed says that every tour group has to have a name – so he calls us the Nefer group.  Nefer means beautiful. How appropriate – because we are – well, some of us anyway.  After a bit of a chat about what we will see on the tour – he says we can relax in our room for about half an hour or so before heading off to The Temple of Luxor. 

We all meet in the lobby – back across both boats and onto our little bus. The heat is stifling – not a breeze anywhere but there is no humidity.  I am onto my 12^th roll of film. I can’t stop thinking I am finally here in Egypt looking at all these places.  Everyone is so nice.  We arrive at the Temple of Luxor and I can’t believe it.

HISTORY LESSON : On the east bank of the Nile lies the magnificent Temple of Luxor which is dedicated to the great god Amun-Re, his wife Mut and their son Khonsu. These three gods are known as the Theban triad. The earliest parts of the temple seen today date from the 14^th century BC and the time of Amenhotep III (18^th Dynasty).  The temple was added to by many pharaohs including Amenhotep III, Tutankhamen, Horemheb and Ramses II. 

At the entrance to the temple is an avenue of sphinxes that leads up to the first pylon. These sphinxes formed a 3 kilometre avenue connecting the Temple of Luxor and the Temple of Karnak. At the entrance pylon there is an obelisk (the other one is in Paris France at the Place de la Concorde) and colossi of Ramses II (Ramses the Great). Originally there were 6 colossi – today only 3 remain.

We go inside and Mohamed gives us a little tour and then leaves us to explore by ourselves. I know I am going to have to pinch myself every half hour just to make sure I am not dreaming. The camera is working overtime – I hope I have brought enough film with me.  Inside we see the Festival Court of Amenhotep III (left) and the colonnade also built by Amenhotep III with hieroglyphs inscribed during the reigns of Tutankhamen and Horemheb.

The columns are so big that I have my photo taken with one with my arms held out sideways and it doesn’t go anywhere near the width. The hieroglyphs on the walls are incredible : apparently they depict the annual Opet festival during which the god Amun visited his southern harem – I wish I could read them. 

Below - part of the avenue of sphinxes – from Luxor Temple to Karnak Temple. 

There are lots of palm trees and they, along with the blue sky, make a great backdrop to the temple. After about 2 hours we meet back up and it’s back to the boat so we can get cruising – not to mention have lunch. We have all worked up an appetite.  We arrive back on board – there are nice hot towels to wipe our hands and face and we are given a cup of refreshing hibiscus tea. Apparently this is also good for blood pressure.

Back to our cabin to unload our cameras and stuff and then down to the dining room for an incredible lunch.  The boat is about half full as it is just the start of the tourist season. This is going to be great. We have left the dock and begun cruising south down the Nile.  Lunch is a full self serve buffet with lots of salads, scrumptious olives, meats, fruit, breads, juices, water and alcohol if required.  A real feast.  Some people watch what they eat because they don’t want to get what is known as ‘mummies tummy’ – I don’t.  After a great meal I head up to the pool deck to lie in the sun, relax and have a swim – 

The pool is at the front of the boat on the top deck and there are lots of deckchairs for relaxing.  My first day on the boat – and I am in heaven.  We cruise past little villages on the banks of the Nile. It is amazing to think that people actually live on the West Bank where the dessert is.

As you can see – there is not much greenery!

It is very hot so it’s time to try the pool. I have applied loads of sunscreen and after a leisurely lay about in the water and then a nice sunbath to dry off I start to get a bit tired.  Maybe it’s because of getting up at 4.00am so decide to go below in the cool and have a little sleep.  I think Kylie is on the other side of the boat in the shade.  I open the window – more villages go by – some more photos - there is a little breeze and I can hear the water lapping the sides of the boat. Zzzzzzzzzz!!!!!!  Some hours later I am woken up by all these guys on paddle boats yelling out to the boat because they are selling galabeas and stuff.  This should be interesting if it happens every day.

Downstairs for dinner - a great 5 course extravanganza.  I get a bottle of wine – very expensive - - it doesn’t taste that great but the bottle is nice.  Ancient Egyptian dancing girls adorn the label.  I don’t finish the bottle – Kylie and I have a glass each – so I take the bottle back to the room.  This will go with the Amaretto to kill all the tummy bugs.

Going back to bed early as I am so tired.  Mohamed says we are going to have early starts to the day because it gets very hot and we also we have to get back to the boat for lunch.  We will cruise most of the afternoon - sounds good to me.

We left Luxor about 1.30pm and are still cruising south at 9.30pm. We moor at Edfu late in the evening for overnight. Apparently it is against the law to cruise the river late at night because of all the tourist boats.

Highlight of the day :  Standing beside those huge columns

1998 Mystery of History – Day 9

Sunday – Cairo – Museums & mummies & treasure – oh my

▲ ▲ ▲ Wake up to the sound of traffic, realise where I am and immediately jump out of bed to look at Cairo in the daylight.  Our room overlooks Tahrir Square right in the centre of Cairo and already the air is filled with what I think is pollution.

We discover it is the sand and haze from the desert, along with pollution from the traffic. Views from our room - on the left is the view of The Nile and on the right is Tahrir Square.  We go downstairs and have a lovely buffet breakfast. Lots of yummy fruit – especially apricots – croissants, mushrooms, tomato, toast, juice and coffee. There was something like bacon, but I think it was a type of warm corned meat. It was nice anyway. The hotel staff has told us how to get to the Egyptian Museum from the hotel – it is a short walk so that is great. We decide to spend most of the day there. Leaving the hotel – turn right - every cab in Cairo converges on us. Smiling sweetly, no thank you, no thank you, we put our heads down and take off.  On our way to the museum we see armed guards everywhere.  These are the Tourist Police.  Along the way, we meet this guy who tells us that we cannot buy entrance tickets to the museum at the museum (oh really?) we have to get them from a place across the road. Anyway, after talking with him we seemed to have arrived at a papyrus shop - - Rahma Centre Papyrus - after having a cup of hibiscus tea (which we were a bit unsure of in case it was drugged) we are shown how paper is made out of papyrus and we buy a couple of pictures with our names painted on the bottom of them. I am sure that we must have a sign that says ‘Western Tourist Idiots’ tattooed on our foreheads as we fell for it hook, line and sinker. What a hassle but anyway we get to the museum and there are lots of guards with dirty big guns everywhere.

Look right - Kylie and me outside the Egyptian Museum.

We have to buy a photo ticket for photography inside the museum – LE 10 each. The ticket reads ‘outside’ but it is really ‘inside’ - and after going through security screens I just cannot believe I am here – it is all so emotional.  The Egyptian Museum was established by the Egyptian Government in 1835. The present building was built in 1900 by the French architect Marcel Dourgnon.  There are now over 120,000 objects on display.  We walk all over the place and make a valiant effort to try and see everything – and I of course take loads of photos.  This is a colossal statue of the pharaoh Amenhotep III and his Chief Wife Queen Tiye.

HISTORY LESSON : Amenhotep III appears to have been crowned during the 18th dynasty while still a child.  His lengthy reign was a time of peace and prosperity for Egypt.  He built extensively at the Temples of Karnak & Luxor and his mortuary temple – the largest religious complex in Thebes - is situated on the Nile floodplain.  It now lays in ruins but part of it is known as the Colossi of Memnon.  Amenhotep III was the father of Amenhotep IV – later called Akhenaten – the heretic pharaoh.  You may also see his name written as Amenophis – that is the Greek version. But when in Egypt - - use Egyptian!

You can take photos for free outside the museum in the grounds but I am glad that I bought the ticket for inside photography. It is all no flash - - so hope they turn out.  Apparently flash photography in past years has had a detrimental effect on the colours of the objects.  We head off to find the rooms where the treasures of Tutankhamen are kept. We are lucky and there are not a lot of people here at this stage. Although I imagine it will be packed later on.

We see the treasures of Tutankhamen – many are placed in glass cases in the hallways of the museum – e.g. the canopic jars and the statue of Anubis and there is a special guarded room where all the ‘serious’ objects are. This is what I want to see - - -

We go in and there is a glint of gold everywhere. It is truly unbelievable.  We see the outer coffins – and the third coffin made from solid gold.  What craftmanship – and all the jewellery. I can’t believe I am actually standing in front of that incredible mask – I just have to get my photo taken with it. A face of a boy king – very serene but sad. We are taking photos of everything until Kylie’s flash goes off by mistake and the guard comes over and says to her no flash – no flash. We note the gun and offer many apologies. We spend about an hour there.  I really do not want to leave. It’s incredible. But it is time to move on so we head for the ‘Royal Mummies Room’ – cost LE40.  There are about 10 mummies in this special room – definitely no photos allowed and no loud talking. Whispering just comes naturally. The royal mummies are in special glass cases that are monitored for humidity and temperature. We are in the presence of so many great Pharaohs.

I see Ramses II (Ramses the Great) and was close to tears just looking at his face. This is a very emotional place. We stay and pay our respects for a while and then explore some more of the museum.

However, we have to find the ladies rest room. This is an incredible experience. Before going in we have to give a lady LE1 and she gives us 2 sheets of paper. I wonder what would happen if we asked for more, however, we get to wash our hands for free.  We see lots of things – the tiny statuette of Khufu, builder of the great pyramid. This is the only statue of him that has ever been found. There are mighty statues of the heretic Akhenaton; sphinxes of Hatshepsut – just too many things to name. 

We did miss some things – but the museum is covered in our tour so hopefully we will catch up then. Coming back from the museum we walk back along the Nile – incredible – we also meet more papyrus artists but we are wise now.

Coming to a set of lights, we wait for them to turn green – nobody else is – so we decide to take Walid’s advice and just run. Big adrenaline rush!!! We make it safely to the other side. Arriving back at the hotel, we have to go through a security check – it’s just like the airport. Up to our room, relax a bit and then because the hotel has a fabulous pool I decide to go for a swim. Kylie has gone for a massage. It is a lovely hot day – vivid blue skies, dry heat - not humid, and the water in the pool is refreshing. The towels are white and wonderfully soft. I can’t help smiling. After an hour or so of just soaking up the sun and the atmosphere I go back down to the room. We order dinner from room service as we have to go to bed early tonight. We are leaving Cairo at 5:00am in the morning to fly to Luxor for the start of our Insight Tour. During our day in Cairo we discover that most of the Egyptian people are friendly and even more so when we tell them we are Australians. I am offered 5,000 camels for Kylie but my motherly instincts get the better of me and I refuse.

Highlight of the day : looking into the eyes of the boy king.

1998 Mystery of History – Day 8

Saturday – Athens to Cairo – the fish that didn't get away!

Wake up to a sunny day and bright blue skies. Have I said that before?  Anyway, we partake of another healthy breakfast and then head off to see the Temple of Zeus. First up we go past Arch of Hadrian (photo below on the left) which is under reconstruction.  I think they must have the contract on the Albert Memorial in London as well.  Let’s hope that there is not too much under construction work going on. 

The Temple of Olympian Zeus is not far – and it’s a nice day for a short walk. Fabulous place and no entry fee.  We walk around the temple without any restrictions and we can go in between all the columns.  Great views of the Acropolis between the columns makes for some great photos.There are some columns that have fallen where we can get a good look at the beautifully carved tops. Such intricate work – how on earth did they do it???? Beats me.  We see the old Roman Baths – meaning that the baths are old not the Romans - that are also a part of the complex. The gardens here must have been wonderful. Spend about and hour or two just wandering around and savouring all the history. We decide to go shopping (again) and I buy a leather bag, a fabulous white shirt (that disappears every now and again only to turn up on my daughter), a couple of bracelets and a genuine Greek sponge for the shower. After our shopping spree we decide we better have some lunch so we head off to the Plaka to try and find some cheap seafood. Is there such a thing? We pass many restaurants until we come to one called ‘Plaka’. That’s very original I must say. It is a traditional (?) Greek restaurant and the owner is out the front and practically herds us in saying that he has people in Melbourne and do we know them? Chuckle, chuckle. We are polite and say no. Anyway, we decide that this place can’t be as expensive as Milton’s so we take a deep breath and in we go. We order red snapper and garden salad. The food is really delicious and the snapper is filleted and served at the table. And it really wasn’t expensive - about 50 OZ for the both of us.  After lunch the owner takes us to a gold shop called ‘Dimos’ (I think he must have some deal going) and I buy another bracelet. This one is really pretty with lapis lazuli and the Greek key design.  Now we know why the fish was so cheap – he gets a cut on the jewellery for sure. We leave there and go back to the hotel because we have to finish packing. We leave for Cairo this afternoon. Did not get a chance to go to the museum - bummer.

We are due to fly out at 7:30pm so we arrange for a taxi and off we go. Arrive at the airport, check in our luggage and head for the duty free. Buy some real Greek olives done in olive oil, some chocolate filled straw shaped biscuit things and some real Greek Olive Oil made in some monastery. Anyway - the bottle is nice.

We then go to our departure lounge and wait for boarding - -

▲ ▲ ▲ Finally board our flight to Cairo - Olympic Airways – flight OA 325. Airplane is OK but the stewards are as rude as all get out. I think to myself Kylie is going to get us thrown off the plane after one altercation concerning the toilet. This turns out to be a really forgettable flight – although the food and wine is not too bad. The passengers are mainly Egyptians – and flying into Cairo we get a view of the Pyramids – WOW – so excited and soon we land.  It is about 10:30pm. There are armed guards everywhere and our bags are searched. They open my toothpaste and want to know what it is!!! What do you mean what is it? Don’t you use toothpaste here? I nearly die –thinking that my time in Egypt will be spent in a cell after being convicted of trafficking in toothpaste! In hindsight I bet they do it just to frighten the shit out of the tourists.  Well, it worked!  Our Insight Tour - Splendours of Egypt has started on a real heart start note!  The resident Insight Cairo Manager – Walid – meets us after we get through customs and leads us to the little shuttle bus. The traffic is unbelievable. It is a hot night and considering the lateness of the hour – it is still very busy. There are two traffic lanes marked on the road and there are five lanes of traffic!!! This is going to be interesting getting to the hotel. Walid says ‘there are no traffic accidents in Cairo because everyone blows the horn every time they do anything so that everyone knows what everyone is doing’ - - he’s right about that - - the horns never stop - - and, another little gem of Egyptian traffic rules - - ‘if you want to cross the road – don’t wait for the green light – just close your eyes and run’. Nobody ever pays attention to the lights – they are just suggestions!!!  Kylie and I look at each other and roll our eyes. He has a real misplaced sense of humour. HA! What we don’t realise though – he is right!!!!

A very interesting half hour later we arrive at our hotel - the Semiramis – in one piece.  What a palace and it is right on the Nile. WOW !!!!!!!  After a bit of discussion between everyone – we are given a ‘Junior Suite’ on the 12^th floor. A really big room with two double beds and a lovely bathroom.

The porter brings up our suitcases and we don’t know how much to tip him – seeing that Egyptian money is practically worthless - so we give him LE20 - which is about $5 OZ.  The guy is smiling from ear to ear and it is not until later the next day we discover we should have given him only LE2 - hardly worth the effort. Oh well, live and learn.

The traffic keeps up all night but I am so tired I don’t mind – needless to say I sleep well.

Highlight of the Day : Flying over the pyramids by night coming into Cairo.

1998 Mystery of History – Day 7

Friday – Athens & beyond - two tragic tourists Have-a-Chat

Awake early and enjoy a lovely breakfast – a combination of hot bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms, continental pastries, toast and coffee. Everything that is low calorie! The day is warm and sunny with clear blue skies. We get ready for our first tour today – making sure we have our cameras, plenty of film and our bottles of water we are ready to attack Athens! Setting off in the bus that picks us up from the hotel about 8.40am, our guide is a lady by the name of Sophia Kokkinou.  She is very nice and a very informative guide and has for sale some of her books.  Well, being the typical tourist I get one on Greek Mythology.  It is a wonderful little book and I know that I will enjoy reading it.  We start off by driving past the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier that is just around the corner from us – so we will walk back to that one on our own time, and no doubt, take some photos.

Our first stop is the Panathenian Stadium, site of the first modern Olympics in 1896.  We get to wander around inside on the track and of course, I take lots of photos.  When it is time to get back on the bus it’s like a stampede of a group of out of control buffalos crossing the Serengeti as they make sure to get on the bus first so that no-one else takes their seat!  We were smart and put our jackets and some other crap on our seats.  Going past the Academy of Athens, the prison cell of Socrates and the Roman Temple of Olympian Zeus (which is also not far from our hotel and another one to visit on our own time) we head up to the Acropolis. We park the bus at the bottom of the hill and we have to walk up.

Before we go up however, we can walk over and get the ground view of the Odeum of Herodes Atticus. More Kodak moments - - will most probably have to buy some more film and we haven’t even got near Egypt!

HISTORY LESSON : The Odeum was a Roman addition to the Acropolis built around 167AD.

Not far away from here there is a little drinking fountain that has fresh spring water. Sophia tells us that the water is quite safe to drink - I am game (especially as I carry around my own Chemist supply) – it is wonderfully cold and very refreshing as the day is heating up. After a minute of two I am still alive and well after the first sip so we fill our water bottles!  We also get some really great shots of the Acropolis from below.  Time to begin our journey to the Acropolis and those wonderful temples.  I am just so excited. We enter through the Propylaea with the Temple of Athena Nike to our right. Ahead is the fabulous main temple of the Acropolis - the Parthenon – after looking at so many pictures and reading so many books I am actually standing right in front of it.

HISTORY LESSON : The Propylaea was designed by the architect Mnesikles and constructed in 437-432BC. It comprises a central building and two lateral wings. The Temple of Athena Nike was designed by Kallikrates and constructed circa 420BC.

Right in front of us is The Parthenon. 

HISTORY LESSON : The Parthenon was dedicated to Athena Parthenos the patron goddess of Athens. It was built between 447 and 438 BC and its sculptural decoration was completed in 432 BC. The construction was initiated by Perikles and supervised by Pheidias. The central part of the temple, called the cella, sheltered the famous chryselephantine cult statue of Athena made by Pheidias. On the east side above the main entrance is a scene showing the birth of Athena and on the west – the fight between Athena and Poseidon for the name of the city. Obviously Athena won – hence the name Athens.

A great part of the Parthenon was destroyed by a major explosion when it was used as a powder magazine by the Turks in 1687.

There is a lot of restoration work being done but the cranes do not detract from the building. The sky is so blue and I can imagine how it used to look. What a shame that the original façade on the top of the Parthenon (which is dedicated to the goddess Athena) is not there anymore. It was ‘taken for safe-keeping’ by Lord Elgin and is now cooped up in the British Museum. 

At the back and to the right of the Parthenon where the above picture is taken is the Erechtheion with the famous Porch of Maidens known as Caryatids.  Photo below.

HISTORY LESSON : The Erechtheion was built circa 420 BC. The main temple was divided into two sections dedicated to the worship of the two principal gods of Attica – Athena and Poseidon.  A relief frieze bearing a representation possibly of the birth of Erectheus decorated the exterior of the building.

I don’t have to keep telling you that I take lots of photos – that goes without saying. Kylie and I wander around up there for ages and we visit the Acropolis Museum where we, yes, take more photos including some of the original Caryatids (Maidens) from the Erechtheion.

ATHENS TRIVIA: You will most probably note that I mention Attica a few more times. Attica isn’t Greek for Athens. Attica is an area located in what is today southern Greece and covers about 3,800 square kilometres. In addition to Athens, it contains within its area the cities of Peiraeus, Eleusis, Megara, Laurium and Marathon, as well as a small part of the Peloponnese peninsula and the islands of Salamis, Aegina, Poros, Hydra, Spetses, Kythira and Antikythira.

HISTORY LESSON : The Theatre of Dionysus was a major amphitheatre in ancient Greece, built at the foot of the Acropolis. It is dedicated to Dionysus, the God of plays and wine and all good times.  He is my favourite God. The theatre could seat as many as 17,000 people, making it an ideal location for ancient Athens’ biggest theatrical celebration – the Dionysia. This was a large religious festival in honour of Dionysus, the central even of which was the performance of tragedies and comedies. It was the second most important festival after the Panathenaia.

It is then time to get back on the bus for the rest of the tour.  We go up to the Filopapou Monument that was erected as a monument to Gaius Julius Antiochus Philopappus, a benefactor of Athens. It is on a hill opposite the Acropolis with a splendid view over the entire basin of Attica  - - - - - and then it’s time to go back to the hotel.

After unloading our gear and freshening up a bit we decide to go back to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier that is right out the front of Parliament House on Constitution Square.  We get to see the Changing of the Guard and I have my photo taken with them. They do this very intriguing march and have metal studs on their shoes and because of this you can hear them coming down the street.  We go to the Plaka where we buy some fresh rolls, meat and salad and wonderful, large greek olives and then high tail it back to the hotel to eat lunch in our room.

I have also bought some wonderful ‘proper’ Baclava. This is a filopastry sweet with lots of nuts and honey. Yum !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In the afternoon – about 3:00pm we take our second tour – this time to Cape Sounion where we will see the Temple of Poseidon. We drive along the coastal road past some lovely beaches and we get a great view of the Saronic Gulf. When we get off the bus it is a bit windy and there is no sun but it is not cold. It is hard to realise that these temples are thousands of years old.

HISTORY LESSON : This is one of the most important sanctuaries in Attica. There are two temples – that of Poseidon (pictured) on the southern edge and about 500m to the NE the sanctuary of Athena. At the beginning of the 5^th century BC the Athenians initiated the construction of an imposing temple dedicated to Poseidon. The building was never completed as it was destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC. In the following decades an important building project was undertaken at both sanctuaries.

We are allowed to wander around for ages and take lots of photos of the Temple and the sea – before it is time to head back to Athens. We get back about 7:00pm so a quick freshen up and we decide to go out and have a look around at the night life. We discover a really quaint little jewellers where I buy a really nice gold ring for US50.00 and a dolphin pendant for US25.00. A real bargain.  Wander down into the Plaka making sure that we avoid ‘Miltons’ and we grab some McDonalds. Bit more looking around – lots of people - and then we head back to the hotel for a sound night’s sleep.

Highlight of the Day : Standing in front of The Parthenon.

1998 Mystery of History – Day 6

Thursday – London to Athens – fishing in the Plaka and the one’s that got away!

Up early and Kylie has arranged for another ‘private’ car to pick us up and take us to the airport. Check tickets, passports, camera, film etc. etc – the usual airport tango and we head off to Heathrow for our flight to Athens.  We are flying Olympic Airways – Flight OA 0260 departing Heathrow 12:30pm.

The ground staff at check-in don’t seem to be people persons. Everything seems to be too much trouble but nevertheless we try to smile and think of the good times to come. Always amazes me why people who don’t like people take jobs knowing they have to deal with people.  I just love international airports. Come to think of it – I love any type of airport. The buzz I get from all the people and planes is the best feeling. We proceed through customs and head off to the duty free. A small spending spree occurs and I get some more Amaretto. (Medicinal purpose alcohol of course!) We go to the lounge and wait for our call. Lots of people - - time to board.  The plane is OK – nothing fancy – taxi down the runway – faster, faster and we are off. Athens and Egypt here we come!!!!

Arrive in Athens – not a very attractive airport. It is right in the middle of lots of hills – which made for an interesting approach and landing. We grab a trolley, retrieve our luggage and make our way to customs and get our passports stamped. They have let us into the country - - so we make a quick exit before they change their minds.  This place is hosting the 2004 Olympics and from the look of it – they will never be ready. But I am excited nevertheless.

We head off to the taxi stand and the outside of the airport is just as non-descript as the inside. Get in line and while waiting I can’t help it – I take photos.  Kylie cringes telling me not to act like a tourist. Good grief Kylie, I am a tourist and anyway these people will not see me again, although back home Melbourne has the largest Greek population outside of Greece – to you never know!  We manage to get a cab – with another lady who is going in our direction (we think). Apparently it is a set fee for the cab - - we go past the sea (Saronic Gulf) – it looks wonderfully blue and so calm, I would like a swim but maybe later. We arrive at our hotel – the Olympic Palace.  The address is Filellinon Street 16. Right in the centre of Athens in the Plaka.

HISTORY LESSON : This is Athens oldest and, thanks to restoration efforts which went into its buildings in recent years, most picturesque area. As you walk around the stone-paved narrow streets it is like travelling back in time. Even the air is different, lighter, clearer and scented – just like a gift from the gods. It is a labyrinth of streets and it is easy to get lost in the maze. But there is no need for alarm – uphill is the Acropolis and downhill are Syntagma and Monastiraki.

We check in about 6pm, unpack and catch our breath. We are here for two days and nights. There is just so much to see - -

For dinner Kylie suggests some proper fish and seafood as all they have in England is Cod.  Thinking that is not a bad idea, we go downstairs to talk to the staff and they recommend a place called ‘Milton’s Seafood’.  Doesn’t sound very Greek to me – but it is not very far and we head off.  Possibly the hotel gets a cut from everyone they send down there.  The waitress comes out with a list of the food available and everything is in Drachma. She tells us they have a seafood platter, it is not on the menu and we think OK that sounds like a good idea. How much can a seafood platter cost – we think not much - maybe around $70.00 OZ for the two of us and our mouths are watering. We sit there for a while and then decide we better ask how much we are up for before eating and then having to wash the dishes.  There are a lot of American tourists here and that makes me think that it is a bit on the expensive side. She tells us that everything on the platter is charged separately. The fish costs so much, the prawns costs so much etc. etc so by the time we add it up and convert it back to Aussie dollars it is going to cost us about $250.00 for the two of us.  We think this is a bit too much to pay for fish and chips with some extra seafood on the side, even Doyle’s back home with an unbeatable harbour view is not this expensive - so we embark on a plan of escape. We tell the waitress that we have left our travellers cheques back at the hotel and we will be back in about 10 minutes. We take off walking very slowly and then break into a fast trot like we are fugitives from justice. Needless to say – we avoid this area for our stay in Athens.  Walking around, we notice the town is full of stray cats. They are everywhere. We have a bit of a look around the shopping area of the Plaka and as our stomachs are protesting rather loudly for being gypped out of a fish dinner we decide we had better get some food.  Kylie buys a cheese pie and I get some sort of chocolate pudding. What a memorable first dinner and so nourishing.  We decide we will find somewhere to sit and eat instead of going back to the hotel and on our way to somewhere we both buy some postcards. We find a park opposite a very grandiose building – the Zappeion Exhibition and Congress Hall and eat our dinner.

We are immediately surrounded by cats.  The night is extremely mild and there are lots of people around.  Actually we feel quite safe sitting in the park except that we may get mugged by the cats wanting our food!.

After we have dinner and a bit more of a look around we go back to the hotel and ask about some day tours that we can take. They give us a few brochures and we decide on 2 tours operated by Chat Tours that sound pretty interesting – Sights of Athens tomorrow morning (cost 9300 Drs each) and the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion (cost 9000 Drs each) in the afternoon. We pay our money and retreat to our room to write out some cards.  Our room faces out onto a small street away from the traffic – so that’s good.

Highlight of the day : The Great Escape!

1998 Mystery of History – Day 5

Wednesday – London – beheadings and bridges

Today I am off to the Tower of London.  Get out the train map and work out how to get there.  On the train at Kilburn – change at Westminster and get the train to tower Hill.  I am getting to be an expert at this.  Come out of the station and follow the crowd – it’s not too hard to find the place.  Line up and go through the gate.  The feeling of history is incredible and I can’t get over the fact that I am walking on the same ground upon which many historical figures have walked.

HISTORY LESSON : Founded nearly a millennium ago and expanded upon over the centuries since, The Tower has protected, housed, imprisoned and been for many the last sight they saw on Earth.  It has been the seat of British government and the living q2uarters of monarchs --- the site of political intrigue and is the repository of the Crown Jewels.  It housed Elizabeth I when she imprisoned there by her sister Mary.  It has housed lions, bears and to this day – flightless ravens, not to mention notorious traitors and famed members of court, lords and ministers, clergymen and knights.

I see the site of the scaffold (look right) where the second wife of Henry VIII – Ann Boleyn – was beheaded, along with many, many others.  Creepy feeling. and makes my neck twitch.

I do the ‘follow the map’ suggested guide and it is unbelievable.  Up and down little staircases; along Tower walls and into many little interesting rooms.  I can take photos inside the Tower, except for Waterloo Barracks (on the left).  This is where the Crown Jewels are housed.  They are breathtaking.  Millions and millions of dollars worth of diamonds and precious jewels set in crowns, sceptres, orbs and other items of royal regalia.  In the special section where these jewels are there is no stopping.  You get on a moving walkway and stay on it until the end.  But the good thing is you can go around and get on it again and again.

The grounds are immaculate and I hear the story of the ravens which is if they ever leave The Tower the Monarchy will fall.  Hence that is why their wings are clipped and they are fed and encouraged to stay.

Taking loads of photos – I stop for a moment and get some good, kind person to take my photo with the Yeoman Warders – otherwise known as Beefeaters. They have lots on interesting tales to tell.  So much history – the suit of armour made for Henry VIII – and looking at it he sure must have been a decent size – I pity the horse.  Apparently old Henry was so big that he had to be lifted onto the horse!  Walter Raleigh’s room in the Bloody Tower when he was imprisoned; a copy of the Coronation Throne of Edward I and Traitor’s Gate.  So much to see and so little time.  You need at least a full day here or maybe two.  Maybe on the next trip I will come back here and take the tour given by the Tower Keepers.  After walking around here for about 5 hours, it’s time to head over to Tower  Bridge which is not vary far.  I am a bit disappointed with the tour – but hey what the – if you are in London just do it even if it’s only once in a lifetime.  Part of the tour is that we can walk across the span at the top of the bridge.  Really great views of the Thames and the Tower – so that was good. 

Am dead on my feet and I still have to go home and pack.  Tomorrow we leave for Athens!!!! WOW !!!!!! Point myself in the direction of Tower Hill station and head back home.  I am dog tired after all the walking – but it was definitely worth the sore legs and feet.

Highlight of the day : Spending time with my new mates – The Beefeaters.

1998 Mystery of History – Day 4

Tuesday – London – toads and clowns

Today is a day of rest as I know that I need to be wide awake to enjoy the night.  Just stay around the flat today trying to recover and then head off to old London town to Kylie’s work so that we can meet up with ‘the guys’.  We (Kylie, Az, Mini, Lisa and me) are all going out for dinner.  I meet Kylie after she finishes work and before the crew arrive we go into the pub next door to her work.  The name of the pub is ‘The Slurping Toad’.  Yes – really – strange names for pubs over here.  Az arrives and then Mini and Lisa.  It is great to see them all again and catch up on what they have been doing.  After drinks we go to a Turkish restaurant near Covent Garden that Kylie recommends – Sofra.  The place is really great and the food is lovely.  Homus, tatziki etc.  Lots of great Greek / Turkish food and that means lots of olives. 

A few drinks later everyone is having a great time.  After that we venture off to Piccadilly Circus to see those famous night lights and we take some more photos.  Az leaves for home tomorrow after travelling all over the continent just about.  He has had a fabulous time.

Highlight of the day : the scrumptious food at Sofra and the good company of course!

1998 Mystery of History – Day 3

Monday - London - a mouse with a phone caught in a trap

Wake up at about 8.30am after about 25 hours sleep – the dreaded jet lag has hit. Kylie has gone to work so I just amble around the flat for a while and get some breakfast - toast & coffee. Will just take it easy today because we are going to the theatre tonight. Kylie has bought us tickets to see Agatha Christie’s ‘The Mousetrap’. It is on at St. Martin’s Theatre in the West End of London - the major theatre area. The plan is to stay at the flat until about 4pm and then go into town to meet Kylie. Well, so much for that idea – it was not a good plan anyway. I’m not going to waste a minute and decide to head off to the station and back to St. Paul’s Cathedral. I remember the way to the station, I buy the right ticket and I get off at the right stations. How is easy is this!!! Kylie’s work (Orient Capital) is just down the street from St Paul’s so I don’t have far to walk to meet her. The Cathedral is even better the second time around. What a magnificent place. I get there about 12.30pm and stay the entire afternoon. I walk around and around and this time I see everything – sometimes even see it 2 or 3 times. I mark everything off on the pamphlet guide. What a fabulous place if you love history and I do.

Going into the Chapel of St. Michael and St. George, I sit for a while and light candles for Aunty Edna, Uncle Ivan and Nanna Iris.

Revisiting the Crypt – the tombs of Christopher Wren, Nelson & Wellington and also the Treasury where there are a lot of artefacts. I don’t know how many times I walk around the Crypt and the Cathedral but I know it’s a lot. Evensong is at 5pm and I don’t have to meet Kylie until about 6.00pm so I take up a seat in The Nave – the main part of the Cathedral - for the service. Am glad of the rest and I get a chance to fully admire the ceiling of the Dome. I am really enjoying the service until Kylie’s mobile phone starts ringing. I have forgotten all about it. She has given it to me in case I get lost and need her. Well I don’t know how to answer the bloody thing so I look around trying to pretend that I am trying to find the person who is so rude as to have a mobile phone in a cathedral. The ploy is not working and I try to cover up the sound with my hand but that doesn’t work either. I am glad when the service finishes so I can escape. Mega embarrassment and I am sure that the Archbishop has taken notes.

Meet Kylie and she asks ‘Why didn’t you answer the phone?’ I explain the situation – she thinks it is a real hoot and can’t stop laughing. She was ringing to make sure that I have not got lost in the big city and of course when I didn’t answer the phone she panicked thinking where the **** is she. I was in St Paul’s Cathedral at the Evensong Service of all places making an idiot of myself – that’s where. Oh well, I do it back in OZ, so may as well continue the tradition here. Kylie agrees – yes I am an idiot.

There are two of the guys from soccer over here and we agree to meet up and have a few drinks (that tradition doesn’t change either). One of the guys – Justin, has been to Greece and the Islands and to Italy and other places on the continent and has had a fabulous time. The other fellow Craig and his partner Lisa are living in London so we all agree to meet for dinner tomorrow night.

Anyway – off to the theatre. The play is great. It is a really small theatre – really intimate atmosphere - and it is packed. We have the middle two seats in the front row of the upstairs Stalls. How classy! This play has been running in London since 1952 and at St Martins from 1974. It is the longest running play in history. It is a real whodunnit – and the cast instruct us not to reveal to anyone who committed the murder. At intermission we go outside to grab a breath of fresh air and London is alive and buzzing. There are people everywhere and the feeling of the West End is incredible. Back to the play and the ending is a real surprise – but I promised I wouldn’t tell!!

We have a bit of a walk around and then catch a cab home (my shout again). It has been a long day, full of excitement and merriment, I get into bed and am asleep before my head touches the pillow. I am really glad to be here with Kylie.

Highlight of the day : West End and finding out whodiddunnit!