2001 Norfolk Island’s Lazy Dayz – Day 12

Memories of good times – good fun & good company

As you can gather this is not really day 12 – it is just the left over bits and pieces that I remembered but couldn’t figure out where they went.  We laughed and laughed so hard at times we ached and nearly made ourselves sick – we sat in silence and it felt like we were the only ones in the world so here a few to share with you.

***** The constant ads on TV about Pete’s Place which provided more mirth and merriment to us. This place is constantly referred to as Aladdin’s Cave and is very deceiving as it is filled with treasurers from everywhere – and all at bargain prices.  Their slogan is along the lines of ‘You want a fishing rod – Pete’s Place’ ‘You want a knife – Pete’s Place’ ‘You want a kettle – Pete’s Place’ ‘You want something to cook in – Pete’s Place’ ‘You want just about anything – Pete’s Place’ you get the drift.  The ad starred a family whose lives revolved around catching, preparing and cooking everything from pippies or whelks or whatever that they had harvested on the shores around the island.  This gang would leave Hollywood for dead and were definitely deserving of an Oscar nomination for the performances.

***** Lunch at Daa Nursery.  This place is a plant nursery that I deal with where I work.  They purchase the seed for the plants and hey presto – what plants they don’t sell they grow and then use the produce in the restaurant.  You can either eat inside the large area or outside under the big umbrellas which we did.  Brilliant.  It is these people here that introduced us to ‘Sex on the Beach’.  Now don’t get too excited – it’s a drink based on coconut, with rum or tequila or vodka – something alcoholic. It is delicious.  A bit like a very, very strong Coconut, lime, pineapple smoothy with a shot of alcohol thrown in for good measure.  Yum – our downfall on more than one occasion.

***** Dinner at Barney Duffy’s.  This is a mouth-watering Charcoal Grill that serves steaks of your choice and local fish meals.  It is situated in town and when you want to make reservation you pick a date and time and write it in the book out the front!  The place is named after Barney Duffy who was one of the convicts who lived a miserable existence on the island in 1790.  He escaped and evaded his captors for seven years.  He was struck off the register as it was thought he had died falling over one of the cliffs.  One day two young soldiers decided to fish off the treacherous rocks at Headstone and came upon him.  They moved to take him and he cursed them with cries of ‘Take me or report me ye red-coated lily-livered lice – aye, and then I’ll hang but hear ye me curse on ye! So surely as ye do this thing before me corpse has hung a week on Kingston Gallows ye’ll meet a violent death, the pair o’ye. So think twice, me brave young buckos or ye’ll remember these words when your time comes.’  To cut a long story short – they captured him and two days after Barney Duffy stood trial and was hanged, they were swept off the rocks by a freak wave and drowned. A third man who was with them survived.  Our dinner of steak with huge baked potatoes, sour cream, chives and vegetables was enough to feed poor old Barney for a year.  They also have tender juicy ribs – and after eating we are lucky to be able to get up and walk to the car.

***** A night of Trivial Pursuit.  This game was played one night after and during a few bottles of liquid refreshment.  It ended in hilarity for all – and even when I was given the hints and the answers I still couldn’t get it right. 

***** The Progressive Dinner.  This is where everyone gets on a little bus and eats their way around the island.  The first course of canapes and party starters was had at a very charming house that was built out of native timbers.  The entree of local fried fish at another that had a fabulous herb garden (see photo right), the main at another and dessert at another.  It was a lovely night except for the buggers who tried to steal all the wine from our end of the table – they did not succeed I am glad to say.  There was also a mother and daughter (we called them something else) who at the house of the dessert wandered around looking at everything even the owners bedroom!  The owner being a single man who was a chef!  I will say no more as you can get the drift.  Maybe mum was trying to marry off the daughter – who knows – and really who cares.  It gave us three a real good laugh.

This holiday was truly a gem.  Such good medicine for people who are in desperate need of a good time – albeit a quiet one - it refreshed us and gave us a sense of the good life.  We went to Kingston just about every day which made us dissolve into gales of laughter.  We laughed at restaurants, in the spa drowning in bubbles, in bed of a night time listening to the cows, chooks and IT3 cursing the lot of them, we laughed when we discovered we locked the doors and left the laundry one wide open and then the next day we made sure to lock the laundry door but we left the front door unlocked!  Take my advice and experience it for yourself – you will have a ball!

2001 Norfolk Island’s Lazy Dayz – Day 11

Wednesday – bye, bye Norf!

Well even the weather is sad this morning – we wake to an overcast sky but it does not diminish our enjoyment of the last dekkie brekkie.  We sit and sigh and sigh some more, realising that this is it – today we fly home.  This melancholy quickly burns off as we busy ourselves packing and making sure that our take home booze is secure and will not leak during the trip.  We are good guests and strip the beds and make sure that everything is just as we found it – so that the next guests can have just as memorable stay as we.  After we load the car we have one last look before heading up the drive – which is just a tad harder as we now have a full car load of Norf goodies.  Still, no bottom scrapes and as IT3 stops at the top of the drive we glance back and remember all the good times.  I can thoroughly recommended this house – no, this home – as that it what it felt like from the first minute we set foot in the door.  Today we are dining at Branka House for lunch and as we have a bit of time we go for a little drive to Point Ross.  This is a dirt road that is very steep and as we do not think our precious little four wheeled friend could make it back up the hill we get out and have a little walk.  The early cloud has burnt off and it is turning out rather hot.  Before we start sweating too much we get back in the car and head off to Branka House.  Today’s meal is just as nice as the first – even though I cannot remember what I had, and as we are flying back we decide to only have maybe one or two glasses of the obligatory vitamin G.  It is really lovely to sit and talk over what we have experienced on this trip and maybe make a mental note of returning one day. Who knows?  Soon enough it is time to head for the airport – we fill up the car at the one and only garage in town and then we drive off to the airport to park in the designated rental car parking area with the key still in it – see how trustworthy people are here?  Can you image doing that at Mascot?  And another little bit of information – seat belts are not compulsory here due to the fact most probably one travels a max of 50 kmh whilst waving to all the locals and avoiding the wildlife.

Highlight of the day : none – we are going home – bummer!

2001 Norfolk Island’s Lazy Dayz – Day 10

Tuesday – Ship ahoy and more of Kingston!

We have been told that today there is a ship coming into Kingston Harbour.  We will get to see how they unload the goods as the ship cannot dock beside the wharf.  This is going to be very interesting. 

As we are having our dekkie brekkie we see the ship sail past our headland – so a mad rush to get the cameras and start snapping away. How good is this to sit on our own verandah and watch the ship go past.  We realise that it will not take long for the ship to arrive in Kingston so we put on a bit of speed and head off.  No time for Tropicana this morning – but maybe on the way back eh?  Driving into Kingston we see this herd of geese, who ramble from place to place just like every other bit of wildlife on the island.  They can be nasty buggers, they honk and approach the car as if to say ‘well, where’s the food?’  Unfortunately there is no food from us today and we continue on much to the utter dismay of the geese!  When we arrive the ship has already laid anchor and the unloading begins.  The large boats from the island go out to the ship where cargo is loaded onto them and then they ferry the cargo back to the wharf.  Then the cranes unload the boats putting the cargo on the wharf and it all starts again.  What a hoot!

 

 

 

 

As you can see, everyone comes and watches and it turns into a real social affair.  Apparently when they have to unload a bus or a car, then two boats go out with large boards between the two and the vehicle is loaded onto them.  Now that would be something to see.  The unloading takes a long time seeing that the boats have to go back and forth to the ship many, many times so when we think we have had enough we go for a wander and then head into burnt Pine and the Tropicana.  Below left is another photo of the main street – Taylors Road – and that A frame building is Max’s Duty Free. The photo below right is the Workers’ Club where we had eaten earlier in the trip.  Sure doesn’t look like any Workers’ Club in Sydney does it.  I think I prefer this one to those bloody awful palaces of poker machines, noise and loud mouthed patrons. 

As tonight is our last night we decide to eat in and enjoy our house.  It has been a brilliant stay and this house has been a dream.  It is comfortable, serene and fun – and even though there has been three of us here we can manage to get away from each other for our own quite time.  Even if we sat in the conservatory – we would still be quiet.  It had that type of effect.

This is our deck where we had our dekkie brekkies – afternoon teas – booze and nibblies and many a good laugh.  It was wonderful to just sit out here and look at the view and realise that it was all ours – for the time being anyway.  The weather has been great and we have been able to enjoy every minute of our stay by rambling all over this jewel of a place.

Here are the Three Amigos enjoying the Last Supper.  As you can see we still have a bit of booze left to enjoy with our meal.

Tomorrow we head home back to Sydney but not until one last farewell meal at Branka House. Which reminds me, I forgot to mention the other places that we dined.  Easy fixed - I will add a postscript to this journal when it is finished.

After dinner we bed down for the night listening to the ocean for the last time and wandering why we cannot stay here forever.  Maybe it has something to do with money?  And while we dream there’s always lotto.

Highlight of the day: watching the balancing act unloading the ship.

2001 Norfolk Island’s Lazy Dayz – Day 9

Monday – an in-depth discovery of Kingston

Feeling refreshed and rearing to go – we decide we will go to Kingston and really look around.  We once again enjoy our dekkie brekkie and then I walk up the driveway to have a look around and take some photos.   

Seeing that we have always driven up here it is good to walk and just spend the time enjoying the quiet time.  There are no four footed – or even feathered – friends this morning – just me and my camera.  This is the entrance sign at the top of the driveway down to our house .  As you can see, there are lots and lots and lots of Norfolk Island Pines around and everything is so green.  On the right is another view of our house – somehow you just cannot get enough of looking at this wonderful place. but enough is enough so I walk back down to the house being careful not to trip over the bumps and rocks in the driveway which is always a source of merriment when we drive either up or down.

Are you ready for a bit more history?  OK – let’s go.  Our plan is to park the car at the end of the road near the wharf.  Then we will walk around all the buildings and then venture down Quality Row to the cemetery.

On the left is the Royal Engineer’s Office with the double boatshed.  This is one of the earliest remaining buildings constructed by the Royal Engineers.  It was completed in 1851 as a two room structure with two rear rooms and a porch over the front door.  It was used as a residence by the Pitcairn settlers after 1856.  In 1897 it became the Police Constables quarters after repairs were carried out.  The double boatshed was built in 1841 on the site of an old barn.  It accommodated two 8 to 14 ton launches and two 6 oared whaleboats.  Alterations were carried out in the twentieth century which included the construction of double doors in the east wall and a series of annexes.

Right - the Settlement Guard House (front) was constructed in 1826 on the ruins of a first settlement structure.  In 1841 is was converted to use as the Engineer’s Store and a new east door and a double privvy added.  In 1847 it was again extended and in the early 1850’s it became a library and the location of doors and windows was altered.  The Pier Store (at the rear) was the first substantial second settlement building. It was built in 1825 as the Commissariat Store and in 1834 the stored goods were removed following flooding and steel hand mills were installed in the upper storey to grind corn. The upper storey was adapted as a guardroom in 1841 amid fears of a convict rebellion.  After 1855 the building was used as a customs shed and ‘coffin room’.  It has been largely returned to its early form.

A view of the buildings including the crank mill.  What with some of them being restored and some not, it gives you the chance to use your imagination and wonder what they all liked when they were fully operational. 

Seeing that we had already walked around the Civil Hospital and Surgeon’s Quarters (see previous post) we just give these a light look and proceed up past the New Gaol and Prisoner’s Barracks.  They are just as foreboding as they were before and the sense of dread and desperation is just as great. 

Now it is time for a stroll down Quality Row. The  first building on the corner of Quality Row is the Commissariat Store.  This is the best surviving example of its type and age as well as one of the best examples of Georgian architecture in Australia.  It was completed in 1835 and the work involved excavation of the hill behind.  The ground floor contained a glass partitioned office which still exists, meal room, office and store.  The first floor contained an engineers store, grain store and office, the second floor a grain store. In the basement was a liquor and general store.

In 1874 the building was converted to a church by removing the first floor to create a double storey space. A stained glass window was constructed in the east wall, a gabled porch erected over the north door and a clock and bell installed over the front entrance.  The porch, clock, bell and outbuildings have now been removed but the ground floor still serves as All Saints Church.  On the right is the stained glass window.  Unfortunately on this day the church was not open so we could not investigate the inside and take photos of the window reflecting the sunlight.  But we press on - - it is a long walk up Quality Row.

 

Next stop – the New Military Barracks.  

These were designed in 1834 by the commandant, Major Joseph Anderson who stated that it was to be ‘stronger in all respects’ than the old barracks.  Construction began in 1835 after excavation of a large part of the hill behind the barracks.  The soldiers’ barracks were built first then the officer’s quarters, military hospital, officers’ and soldiers’ outbuildings and ammunition magazine.  The complex was completed in 1837 and housed 164 rank and file soldiers and four sergeants.  The hospital was destroyed by fire in 1909 and the barracks verandah and several of the outbuildings had been removed by the 1920’s.  The officer’s quarters were later extensively rebuilt and the barracks’ verandah reconstructed.  The barracks has now become the island’s administrative centre.

Old Military Barracks.  These provide a fine example of the 1830’s British military architecture. 

They were designed by William Buchanan in 1826 as a two-storey building with verandahs to accommodate 100 men.  Construction commenced in 1829. The convict population soon rose from 170 to 400 prisoners and a third storey was added to the building in 1831.  The officers’ wings were constructed in 1832.  When finally completed in 1834 the complex comprised a central soldiers’ barrack with officers’ quarters on each side.  The the rear were kitchens, wash-houses, privies, military hospital and a well.  The complex was surrounded by a high stone wall.  In the first half of this century the complex was used by the firm Burns Philp.  It has now been adapted to serve as the chambers of the Norfolk Island Assembly.  Some of the outbuildings have been demolished.

Quality Row Houses.  These houses comprise part of the most extensive remaining pre 1850 penal settlement street in Australia.  The first house constructed after Government House was the Roman Catholic Clergyman’s Quarters (No. 11 Quality Row) in 1833.  See photo left. 

Some of the houses on Quality Row were occupied by the Pitcairners in 1856.  In 1908 following a dispute over title to the land and subsequent evictions some were set on fire and gutted.  All but two houses were repaired and a third fell into disrepair in the 1930’s.  These have recently been stabilised as ruins and the other houses returned to their second settlement form.

Photos of some of these houses along with the details are below.  Roll your mouse over the photo to see whose house it was and what year it was built.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Are they not fabulously well restored and looked after? It certainly gives you the feeling of how the officers and upper class of Norfolk Island lived.  At the end of this walk IT3 decides she will walk back and get the car and meet IT1 and myself at the end of this street where we will investigate the Historic Cemetery and Cemetery Bay.

The day is turning out to be extremely hot and we are all in need of some shade and a cold drink – but we will forego the latter for the time being and continue on.  The first Cemetery on the island was at Emily Bay and pieces of headstones have recently been located in the waters of this bay.   

This site was set aside for burials soon after the 1825 occupation. In 1834, after the execution of convicts involved in an unsuccessful uprising, Bishop Ullathorne described the cemetery as ‘closed in on three sides by thick melancholy groves while the fourth is open to the restless seas’.  The Cemetery headstones provide detailed evidence of the convict revolts and the lifestyle and causes of death of the inhabitant’s, including those so often overlooked in official histories – the women and children of Norfolk Island.

This is yet another reminder of the harsh lives all these people had to endure, not just the convicts.

After spending the entire morning at Kingston it is time to head home for lunch of fresh bread and Honest Dave’s produce – and of course the long awaited cold drink!!!  This afternoon we will sit on our deck, listen to the ocean and the birds – and maybe the occasional bovine in the distance – we can contemplate that as beautiful this island is; it has a past of tragedy and cruelty that we really cannot comprehend .

Highlight of the day : after Kingston, Quality Row and the cemetery – finishing with the solemnity and beauty of Cemetery Bay.

2001 Norfolk Island’s Lazy Dayz – Day 8

Sunday – taking it even easier

After our big day yesterday and our rather large intake of alcohol and Norfolk Island produce we decide today is going to be nice and quiet without too much carry on.  So, after our dekkie brekkie we decide to explore Bucks Point which is not too far away from our house.  We have driven all over the south, west and northern parts of the island and have failed to really explore our own backyard.  We arrive at the Reserve to discover a wonderful parkland that would be great for picnics in Summer – that is unless you have your own private headland and picnic area – like we do!  We park the car and head off down to the Reserve which is rather steep but we take things slow and arrive at the bottom of the trail in one piece.  It really is a lovely area.   Once again the weather is kind to with a friendly sun in the sky shining down upon the shimmering blue sea .  The sounds of the ocean hitting the rocks below is always soothing and mesmerising to a degree that you could stand there all day just watching and listening.  We then decide to head for our usual Tropicana morning tea so back into Burnt Pine.  Sitting at the Tropicana and watching the locals go by is just wonderful.  No-one ever seems to be in a hurry, everyone is friendly and everyone talks to each other – something that is sadly lacking back in Sydney.  The usual wandering of the shops occurs and then we decide to do a bit more exploring of the places we have driven past and not stopped. 

This is Mariah’s Restaurant situated at the other end of town.  This is the restaurant at the Hillcrest Hotel and looks like a good idea if we have the time although we are running out of days. The photo on the left is the dining area which overlooks a large reserve and a faraway ocean – see photo on the right. 

Just about every place on Norf has a great view whether it be of parks, the ocean or the wonderful Norfolk Island Pines.  Of course we head off down the road under the pretence of ‘I don’t think we have been down this road – and end up – yep at Kingston.  We have been to Kingston every day and really it is not too hard to do considering that all roads lead to Kingston. Some in a straightforward manner and some where Kingston just seems to pop up around the next bend saying ‘here I am’.  Of course this thrills us no end and we always end up laughing.     Seeing none of us really want to do too much walking today we point the car in the direction of Burnt Pine and home. 

The picture on the left is of Burnt Pine township – and on the right is the road to our house.  Up the hill – to the right then the left and there you are – home.

Stopping in town to get some provisions we then head back for some down time in our conservatory just quietly reading and being distracted constantly by the views over the ocean and Ball Bay before heading off for our Nanna Nap.

When we wake we are just in time to see the sunset so we sit on the deck with our beverages, dips etc after enjoying just another day in paradise.

 

Highlight of the day: enjoying the quiet of sunset and listening to the birds in the parkland around us.

2001 Norfolk Island’s Lazy Dayz – Day 7

Saturday – the climb up Mt Pitt and the day IT3 tried to do me in!

Today we plan on doing something adventurous – we are going to drive up Mt Pitt which is only 316 metres high.  We have to go through the township so of course we stop at the Tropicana for our usual sustenance.  We can see the mountain from where we are and we know that we will get some stunning views from the top.  Unfortunately as the old saying goes – the best laid plans of mice and men – the road is closed to traffic but you can park at the bottom and walk up.  IT1 turns a lovely shade of pale, declares she will stay with the car and have a look around at the bottom of the mountain and IT3 looks at me and says come on it’s only a short walk.  Well short it may be but it is straight up!  Feeling pretty fit we set off.  One good thing is that the road winds around so we get a breather every now and again.  IT3 is striding off while I am huffing and puffing and not at all impressed.  She keeps on saying small steps and deep breaths – small steps and deep breaths.  Well – if I could catch her I’d give her one large step in the you know where!  Eventually after many false alarms thinking it’s just around the next bend – we finally reach the top.  My body is definitely not at all impressed with that little outing and is wondering what has happened to our usual easy going morning! 

There is one good thing though – the views are spectacular and after gaining some sort of composure I manage to take a snap or two.

We stay up here for about half an hour and then decide we better head on down and find out what IT1 has been doing all this time while we have been having so much fun.  The walk down is easy but not as easy as it should be because some of the parts are steep and one gets into a bit of a trot.   This morning has been a real hoot and I am desperately looking forward to going home and relaxing before our lunch at The Homestead to celebrate IT1’s birthday which is in November but hey, a celebration is a celebration.  Off we go to Hundred Acres again – and we can either sit outside in the gardens or inside.  We start off outside but the nasty bities are out so we opt for inside and the grace and charm of quiet dining on the enclosed verandah.   We are enjoying our meal and once again we have a fabulous time.  As it is IT1’s birthday celebration she is allowed to partake of as much alcohol as she wishes. Pink champagne is used to toast the day and then it’s back to the usual.  Our hosts are Anne and Ted Greenhalgh and they are a lovely couple.  It is a lovely restaurant and is open only for morning and afternoon teas and lunches.  Of course you can book special occasions like weddings etc but they do not open for dinner.  We must stay there for about 2 hours or so and then decide we had better make tracks so that they can prepare for the afternoon tea crowd.  IT1 has a bit of trouble standing up and tells us that her mouth has gone numb – and as you can see from the photo below there is a pretty good reason for that!

And when we get home we continue the party - - but not wine – we have amaretto over ice while IT3 has scotch!  Now before you say anything let’s just put our case that we are helping the Norf economy by our meal and alcohol purchases!  On the right shows us enjoying our conservatory and it won’t be long now before we collapse.

Highlight of the day : IT1’s birthday bash